The movie is about a place, and the elements that define and shape it. Sadly, most viewers, as also reviewers, miss the point, being utterly used to the everything-centered-around-hero-heroine format of a hindi film. Its not about a PIO coming from USA to discover his roots, and falling in love with an Indian lass.
The direector expertly delves into the old Delhi area through the stories of people that inhabit it. Agreed the screenplay in this part, which makes up the first half is patchy, but the attention to detail and accuracy of descriptions makes up for it. This is necessary to establish the characters and explain why they end up rioting.
The sub-plot of kala bandar gradually emerges from the sidelines of the story and becomes the symbol of the mentality of the people, and entangles our protagonist and everyone else. In this aspect, the screenplay is very good.
The Ramleela illustrates the contrast between the reality of contemporary society and the values it claims to have. The ramleela sequences are inserted at appropriate points in the film to highlight this contrast.
The songs do not obstruct, just flow with the story. Rehna Tu which seemed a love song, turns out to be written for Delhi, and sounds equally fit.
The movie shows us the mirror, and encourages the viewers to look into it. Go for the movie, if you have the courage.